I’m reading this thoroughly entertaining novel right now where the protagonist lives for a bit in the Kaieteur National Park area and it got me feeling wistful and reflective about my own journey there 3 years ago. My memory is a bit fuzzy (should’ve started blogging since then dammit!XD) but with the aid of pictures allow me to recap.
The year was 2009. I had a tinge of homesickness so I decided to present the spouse (then boyfriend) with a trip to Guyana. To make it extra special, I looked into visiting the legendary Kaieteur Falls since neither of us had been there. Kaieteur Falls is only one of the largest single drop falls in the world and possibly the most famous tourist attraction in Guyana. It’s 3 times the height of Niagara and one of the most powerful waterfalls in the world by virtue of it’s water volume and height. The tale goes that the waterfall is so named by the indigenous Patamona tribe because the chief Kai paddled himself over the falls as a sacrifice to the great spirit, thus saving his tribe. Ever since I can remember, the image of Kaieteur has dominated my concept of Guyana’s ‘interior’ (the term for any land apart from the coastline of the country), and festooned many textbook covers and tourism magazines. I’ve always dreamt of visiting, but for the average Guyanese the trip costs about as much as a trip to a neighboring island, so unsurprisingly many people chose the latter. Recently however there have been special initiatives offering locals reduced prices so more Guyanese can actually experience this local gem.
I researched everything online and decided to go with evergreen tours. There was an overland option to get to the falls that involved days of hiking and scenic fabulousness I’m sure, but I was lazy and chose the plane option. I can’t recall the exact price but it was less than 200US per person – inclusive of return flight, meals and snack – not a bad deal at all! When we got to Georgetown we paid for the trip, and prayed for good weather on the day of flight. The trip was scheduled for the hubby’s exact birthday. I choice I started having misgivings about when I reached the airport. I’ve travelled in small planes before but nothing as small as that plane – it was an eight or ten seater and looked like something time forgot. I reassured myself that pilots don’t normally have deathwishes so obviously it was air-worthy, but I had dark thoughts, I admit XD I had a recurring image of his mother killing me for dooming her son on his birthday XD We boarded the plane, nevertheless, and I was relieved to experience a noisy but non-tumultous flight, being especially fascinated by having a non-pressurized cabin and windows we could open (le gasp!). We soon left the coast behind and for the next half hour I was dazzled by the mighty Essequibo river and its many (supposedly 365) islands. Seeing the vastness of Guyana never fails to impress me and that was a great vantage point for impressing.
First stop was Baganara Resort, situated on the Essequibo River. I was struck by how well kept and tranquil the place was. This is somewhere I hope to return to within the next few years. No matter what ails your soul, it could be rejuvenated in a place like this. We had a scrumptious lunch there and wandered the grounds. A 2 hour stop went way too quickly and soon it was time to depart for the main attraction.
The flight from Baganara to Kaieteur was around 45 minutes, the majority of which was spent going over forest so dense it looked like so many heads of broccoli. The few spots of cleared forest both inspired pride in humanity having conquered that bit of the mighty forest and displeasure at the pockmarking it created. Soon however, it was just uninterrupted dense greenery of the sort that could hide a crashed plane forever…or possibly dinosaurs. It was humbling and majestic. At one point we flew past a ‘mini-waterfall’ that was so pretty it would’ve been the main attraction anywhere else. We landed on a patch of bare ground to the cover of overcast skies. Everything felt wet though any rainfall had been hours past. We were advised not to take anything from the park grounds and I surprisingly complied that one time 🙂 Our guide then started the short hike to the falls.
People say that Kaieteur can ‘call’ you…meaning draw you to it’s edge, likely for some fatal end. I scoffed at that of course, but confronting that large body of water thundering over a precipice is indeed magnetic. A few months later a young female tourist threw herself over the falls during an apparent bout of depression. The report saddened me, but I could relate to the sensual poetic pull the falls might offer someone with supposedly nothing to lose. I have a controlled fear of heights so I kept away from the edge, but hubby had no such compunctions and did several daredevil maneuvers involving the edge that caused me to walk away from him both as a supplication and a threat. There are no guardrails or barriers of any sort at the site though you’re obviously warned of the dangers. You can literally touch the river a few feet before it leaps over the edge.When tourist volume increases this might change, but for now it’s an intensely sensory, immersive and unforgettable experience.
It turned out that two of our travelling companions were actually BBC reporters doing a piece on Guyana. The video belong is the result of their trip. But before you watch that feast your eyes on what my crappy camera captured. 🙂
Thanks for stopping by!
Nasx